Tofu is best when you let it stop pretending

The first time I tried tofu was back in middle school, when I first went vegetarian for animal rights reasons. 

On a particularly scalding summer day, my friend wanted Chinese food, so I opted to get fried tofu with mixed vegetables and white rice delivered. As we sat in her apartment, I was perplexed by the airy bites, which seemed like little nuggets of fried nothingness. They had a bouncy, waxy quality to them, almost marshmallow-like, but without any sort of discernible flavor. They were hollow and airy, and while the brown sauce on the side helped provide some moisture and flavor, the meal was still pretty lackluster. 

While I ate them a few times after that experience, I certainly wasn’t clamoring for them.

Years later, though, I tried lightly-grilled tofu that was soft and supple, with a lingering flavor. The tofu was cooked beautifully and sopped up the sauce incredibly well, with savory and herbaceous flavor notes of soy, sesame and cilantro permeating the protein. Soon after, I then discovered silken tofu, and I’d like to now consider myself a tofu fan.

It may have taken a minute for me to get there, but as I’ve since learned, tofu can be wonderful. 

Tofu has some real bulk, too — it's not a flimsy, dainty thing. It has the structural integrity to hold up to braises, hard-sears and even stews. Tofu is a truly versatile protein, making it equally capable of being a crispy, saucy centerpiece or a subtle side. 

Bonus — tofu is cheap! So while “bean curd” isn’t necessarily the most appetizing name, the food itself is something to take notice of.

How a professional chef uses tofu 

Chef Katianna Hong, a standout on this season of “Top Chef” and a chef based in Los Angeles, used tofu in numerous ways throughout the competition. I was struck by the dexterity with which she used tofu in manners that aren’t obvious or the usual. She didn’t just swap tofu in as a meat replacement, she thoughtfully incorporated tofu with fascinating, creative techniques.

In one challenge, she made a cured salmon tartare with whipped, silken tofu. In another, Hong made a cucumber seed porridge that she thickened with tofu. Interestingly, she used it almost as you would feta or goat cheese. 

I was able to connect with Hong, who told me "I don’t have a preference in terms of type but I do tend to use specific types for certain applications. I like to use medium or firm tofu in crumbled form. I squeeze the tofu dry to remove excess liquid and then crumble and add to dumpling fillings, salads [and] roasted vegetable dishes.”

She noted that one favorite of hers is crumbled tofu and roasted broccoli with garlic, lemon zest and roasted sesame oil. She also likes to whip or use a food processor to "smooth out silken tofu” to use as a sauce, sometimes adding shiro dashi or mustard to help flavor.

Hong even makes tofu the same way I enjoyed it all those years ago: fried! She advises breading and frying before dipping into a tartar sauce or marinara. Lastly, she also enjoys tofu in soups, which is customary in miso, of course.

How vegans and vegetarians — and everyone else — can use more tofu in their cooking 

For many who eat plant-based cuisine, tofu is a staple, and for good reason — both in desserts and savory food. 

Bailey Ruskus, who wrote “Breaking Up With Dairy”, incorporates silken tofu near-constantly in her dishes, in everything from a plant-based cream cheese to rich, whipped dips. Often, vegans rely on the thick, rich mouthfeel of tofu to add body to baked goods, desserts, dips and more. 

Clearly, tofu can be so much more than just a middling protein replacement. Let Ruskus, Hong or perhaps some Chinese takeout fried tofu influence your usage of the protein. You never know what you might end up making. 

Tofu is multifaceted — let it take you to places unknown

No matter if whipped into an icing, deep-fried and served with a sticky dipping sauce or simply steamed, tofu is a shapeshifter. It’s not pretending to be anything it isn’t; it’s just doing its own thing — and brilliantly at that.