When it comes to quintessential fall produce, apples and pumpkin take center stage like clockwork. But behind closed curtains stands the humble pear — a pome fruit that enjoys its peak season during the autumnal months, despite being available year-round.
Every turn of the season, I wonder why pears haven’t garnered the same level of reverence, acclaim and popularity as apples. Pear, in the same vein as its botanical cousin, comes in a myriad of varieties, whether that’s the classic Bartlett or Anjou, Bosc and Comice. They’re brimming with juice, a delicious medley of sweet, fragrant and mildly tart flavors. They also flaunt a crisp yet tender texture that shines when enjoyed on its own or incorporated into baked goods.
Aside from a simple charcuterie board, my favorite way to indulge in fresh pears is by caramelizing them. Rich, buttery pears can be enjoyed straight off the skillet, coated in a light dusting of ground cinnamon, or topped with a dollop of ice cream or whipped cream. Not to mention, they’re also a breakfast must-have, perfect in homemade yogurt bowls and overnight oats or served on a thick stack of warm pancakes.
That’s all to say that caramelized pears are an underrated fall dessert. Here to offer a few tips on how to cook your pears to perfection is Trung Vu, chef-instructor of Pastry & Baking Arts at the Institute of Culinary Education’s New York City campus.
How do you caramelize pears?
“When caramelizing pears, use a ratio of one part sugar to one part butter to six parts fruit. Start by making a dry caramel with 115 grams of sugar, for example. Once all the sugar has melted and caramelized to a deep golden amber, swirl in 115 grams of butter (a wooden spoon works best here, as caramel can easily seize in the twines of a whisk). Immediately follow this with about 690 grams of prepared fruit (approximately four medium pears). The pears can be cut into wedges or diced.”
Ripe vs. underrirpe pears. Which is better?
“Slightly underripe pears work well, as the firmer texture holds together during cooking. Ripe pears work too, so long as you keep a careful eye on them while they are cooking. Over-ripe pears will be too soft and mushy and will disintegrate if you try to caramelize them.”
Don’t overcook your pears. You don’t want them overly soft and mushy
“Keep in mind what you’re planning to do with the pears after cooking. Will you serve them immediately with whipped cream or bake them in a pie or tart? If serving them as is, cook them like pasta, to al dente. You should be able to easily pierce the cooked pear with a paring knife, but it should still have a firm texture and not be too soft or mushy.
If you will be cooking the pears again, you may want to cook them less than al dente. For instance, a classic red wine poached pear tart with walnut frangipane is assembled with cooked pears and baked in the oven for 30 minutes or more. The pears should not be cooked too soft beforehand, or they may have a very soft and undesirable texture after baking.
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How long you should cook the pears so they don’t burn or become overly mushy depends on the size you cut them. But for example, I like to prepare a tarte Tatin with caramelized pears. I slice each pear into eight wedges and it takes 10-15 minutes cooking covered over medium-low heat. Rather than relying solely on time, I test them with a paring knife and taste one or two. Your mouth will know best!”
How can you “fancify” caramelized pears?
“I also like to enjoy pears with creamy things such as whipped cream or ice cream. In the same vein, you can prepare other ‘fancy’ creamy things, such as a sabayon, which is a custard made by whipping eggs over a double boiler with traditional sweet wines like Marsala; you can also use other liqueurs like Grand Marnier, or even fruit juices. Some people like to fold a sabayon with whipped cream for more richness, but my favorite way to enjoy it is layered with fruit like caramelized pears, sprinkled with a bit of sugar and bruleed with a torch for a decadent caramel crunch.”
Pair your pears with an acid
“I also enjoy some acidity when eating something as sweet as caramelized pears, so perhaps instead of just whipped cream, make a lightly sweetened crème fraîche to dollop on top. The slight tang would be refreshing and keep me coming back to eat more. Toasted and chopped pistachios or other nuts would add another dimension to a dish of softer textures like pears and cream.”
How can caramelized pears be incorporated into seasonal bakes?
“Although you can find pears year-round in the grocery store thanks to globalization, pears are in season in the fall. A visit to your farmers’ market may introduce you to some new varieties. A pear frangipane tart is a classic. Pears cook similarly to apples, so to switch it up, I also enjoy making a pear tarte tatin.
Try baking pears into pies or galettes, or even incorporating [them] into an upside-down cake. And although technically not a bake, one of my favorite things to make out of pears is sorbet. I love the texture of ‘biting’ into the sorbet and getting that same texture as biting into a fresh pear, unique and unlike any other texture.”
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