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A magical maple-pumpkin pasta sauce

Creamy, velvety and brimming with fall flavors like squash, apple and sage

Senior Food Editor

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Maple-pumpkin pasta sauce with butternut squash, apple and sage (	Foxys_forest_manufacture/Getty Images)
Maple-pumpkin pasta sauce with butternut squash, apple and sage ( Foxys_forest_manufacture/Getty Images)

A version of this essay first appeared in The Bite, Salon's food newsletter. Sign up for early access to articles like this, plus recipes, food-related pop culture recommendations and conversations about what we're eating, how and why

I’ve been reading “The Power of Fun: How to Feel Alive Again” by Catherine Price, and it’s been quietly radicalizing my afternoons. Price’s thesis is simple, but unsettling: modern digital life — especially social media — is turbocharging our anxieties and splintering our attention spans, making what she calls “True Fun” feel increasingly elusive.

True Fun, as Price describes it, is the kind of play that swallows you whole. “Self-consciousness and judgment—whether from yourself or other people—are anathema to flow, as is any form of distraction,” she writes. Think of an athlete in the middle of a game, or a musician enraptured by a melody or the rare magic of getting lost in a project or conversation and realizing an hour has evaporated.

Price encourages a “fun audit”: noticing which activities reliably put you into that state of flow. For some people, it’s bowling, or ceramics, or tinkering with motorcycles. For me, the usual suspects appear: swimming, dancing, watercolor painting, riding my bike — ideally by a body of water — and, crucially, cooking.

Not necessarily the weeknight scramble, but the kind of cooking where you wander into the kitchen and see where your senses take you. When cooking freestyle for fun, I’ve had my share of disasters (one uniquely bad crispy rice and salmon salad comes to mind), but more often, these experiments turn into small moments of magic— meals that feel like a little celebration, because they’re built from curiosity and instinct. Such was the case with this pasta sauce packed with autumnal flavors like squash, pumpkin, maple syrup, apple and sage.

Flow and fall flavors

One recent day off, I had a few empty hours and decided I would fill them by trying to have some true fun making a sauce that tasted like fall to me — the way Marcella Hazan’s tomato sauce, or Ina Garten’s garden pasta, feel emblematic of July down to my sun-baked bones.

I put the phone up, I set the stage (candles lit, window open, “Over the Garden Wall” soundtrack playing) and I raided the fridge.

It began with diced white onion, a shallot for sweetness, garlic (I am unabashedly devoted to multi-allium dishes), and half a bulb of fennel. I let them sizzle in a mix of butter and a spoonful of pork fat—leftover from making bacon for this batch of cheddar-corn muffins—until the pan filled with strands of caramelized onion and fennel, glistening gold and brown, almost sticky, their aromas deepening and interlacing. I added a little more butter, then, with a thrill of reckless curiosity, drizzled in maple syrup, white miso, red pepper flakes, fennel seeds and oregano, watching each addition dissolve and bloom.


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Next came the squash: a freezer sleeve of cubed butternut, tossed into the pan until it softened and began to caramelize at the edges, before being blitzed in the countertop blender into a smooth-ish, silky slurry and returned to the pot. A can of pumpkin puree, leftover from a recent loaf, joined in. Why both? To save a little food from waste, yes, but also because a fall sauce, to me, should feel more orange than golden, and the two squashes together offered a spectrum of taste: sweet, nutty, earthy and buttery.

Still, it needed lift. I opened the crisper drawer and pulled out an apple, a sprig of rosemary and sage leaves so soft they felt like velvet. The apple grated into the sauce, tiny threads of sweetness weaving through the fat and squash—something I had been itching to try since watching Netflix’s “Nonnas.” The herbs steeped, releasing their piney, slightly peppery fragrance, alongside a spoonful of chicken bouillon, which nudged the sauce firmly into savory territory.

After an hour of gentle simmering, I finished with a splash of apple cider vinegar, a stream of heavy cream and a dusting of parmesan, the final sauce glossy, fragrant, rich and unexpectedly bright. I paired it with rigatoni, Italian sausage, some toasted bread crumbs and a dollop of ricotta. Not every kitchen adventure ends in triumph (sometimes it’s just smoky, salty chaos), but this one did — and I hope it inspires you to dive in, trust your instincts and find a few go-to favorites of your own.

In the meantime, here’s how to make this sauce at home:

Harvest Pasta Sauce with Pumpkin, Apple and Butternut Squash
Yields
4-6 servings
Prep Time
15 minutes
Cook Time
1 hours

Ingredients

  • 1 white onion, diced
  • 1 shallot, diced
  • 3–4 cloves garlic, minced
  • ½ bulb fennel, diced
  • 2 tbsp butter
  • 1 tbsp pork fat (optional; leftover from bacon works beautifully)
  • 1 tsp maple syrup
  • 1 tsp white miso
  • ¼ tsp red pepper flakes (adjust to taste)
  • ½ tsp fennel seeds
  • 1 tsp dried oregano
  • 2 cups cubed butternut squash (fresh or frozen)
  • 1 cup pumpkin puree (leftover or canned)
  • 1 small apple, grated
  • 1 sprig rosemary
  • 4–5 sage leaves
  • 1 tsp chicken bouillon (or ½ tsp bouillon paste)
  • 1 tsp apple cider vinegar
  • ¼ cup heavy cream
  • ¼ cup freshly grated parmesan
  • Salt and pepper, to taste

Optional for serving:

  • Your preferred pasta
  • Italian sausage, cooked
  • Toasted breadcrumbs
  • Ricotta

 

Directions

  1. Cook the aromatics: In a large skillet or saucepan, heat the butter and pork fat over medium heat. Add the onion, shallot, garlic, and fennel. Sauté until the mixture forms glistening golden-brown strands and the aromas deepen, about 10–12 minutes.
  2. Add flavorings: Stir in maple syrup, white miso, red pepper flakes, fennel seeds, and oregano. Cook for 1–2 minutes, letting the flavors bloom.
  3. Add the squash: Toss in the cubed butternut squash and cook until edges begin to caramelize, 8–10 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a countertop blender and blend until smooth-ish. Return to the pan. Stir in pumpkin puree.
  4. Brighten with apple and herbs: Grate the apple into the sauce. Add rosemary, sage, and chicken bouillon. Let the sauce simmer gently for about an hour, allowing flavors to meld and the sauce to thicken slightly.
  5. Finish the sauce: Stir in a splash of apple cider vinegar and the heavy cream. Remove from heat and sprinkle in parmesan. Adjust salt and pepper to taste.
  6. Serve: Toss with cooked pasta of your choice. Optionally, top with Italian sausage, toasted breadcrumbs, and a dollop of ricotta.

A note on cooking for fun

I’ve found that cooking for fun — True Fun — is, really, an exercise in attention. It’s tasting, adjusting, trusting instinct over instruction, and sometimes, to your delight, stumbling onto a combination you never imagined could be this good. And here’s the best part: anyone can try it.

A few small practices have helped me get into the groove. Put the phone away. Seriously. If you need a recipe, print it or—gasp—take notes by hand. Half-distracted cooking, phone in hand, is never going to feel like True Fun. Set the scene. Music you actually like, a few candles, maybe a window open to whatever air is out there. The kitchen doesn’t need to be pristine, but a little order helps the mind settle.

Then comes the question: improvise, pantry-first, “Chopped” style, or follow a recipe? Either way, the main point is the same: unplug, tune in to your senses and pay attention. There’s a rhythm to it, a small, absorbing joy in watching butter brown, garlic bloom, onions soften. You’re not just feeding yourself — you’re practicing presence, in the most delicious way possible.

This story originally appeared in The Bite, my weekly food newsletter for Salon. If you enjoyed it and would like more essays, recipes, technique explainers and interviews sent straight to your inbox, subscribe here.


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