I firmly believe that everyone should enjoy as much tinned fish as possible now that spring has officially sprung. That includes topping salads with tinned smoked salmon marinated in extra virgin olive oil, umami-fying pastas with anchovy fillets à la Alison Roman or topping toast with butter and rainbow trout.
My favorite way to enjoy tinned fish is in a seacuterie board. It’s a play on the traditional charcuterie board that swaps out cured meats for preserved seafood. The star of the board is, of course, tinned fish, which is paired with pieces of toasted sourdough bread, spreads, dips, fresh fruit, pickled vegetables and cheese.
In the same way that cured meats go hand in hand with cheese, so does tinned fish. The combination always varies, meaning certain fish are best enjoyed with creamy cheeses, while others go well with more nutty, hard fromage.
“There are so many different types [of fish and cheese] and it’s really fun when you go to a specialty store, see something you’ve never seen before and try it out,” said Shawn Matijevich, lead chef-instructor of Online Culinary Arts & Food Operations at the Institute of Culinary Education. “It's like the adult version of those little machines when you're a kid. You put a quarter in, and then out pops the capsule and you don't know what's inside. That's kind of how I look at it.”
I spoke with Matijevich, who’s a seacuterie and charcuterie expert, about his favorite fish and cheese pairings. When it comes to choosing the right cheese, Matijevich said it all depends on the specific flavors of each, individual tinned fish.
Here’s a rundown of the best pairings:
01
Salmon
Because salmon is rich in fat, it works well with a crumbly cheese that has some bite to it. “I like to have a contrast in textures,” Matijevich said. He recommended crumbled feta or a mild blue cheese.
02
Tuna
“That’s a tough one because it’s so dang dry, so it’s got a lot of texture to it,” Matijevich said. He suggested a creamy cheese, like Brie, to complement the slightly sweet yet meaty flavors of tuna. Mozzarella and even cottage cheese are other great options.
03
Sardines
Creamy cheeses also pair exceptionally well with sardines, which are dense yet delicate in texture. Similar to tuna, sardines have a mild fishy taste but are more meaty in flavor. Ricotta salata, which is often referred to as the “Italian feta” due to its firm texture and tangy taste, is a great cheese to enjoy with sardines, per Matijevich. Same with Manchego, according to Antonelli's Cheese. The artisan cheese shop also recommended enjoying the cheese and sardines with Sauvignon Blanc: “The bright, zesty flavors of the Sauvignon Blanc complement the oily, slightly salty flavor of the sardines, while the nutty flavor of Manchego cheese adds a complimenting touch.”
04
Trout
“I would pair trout with a goat cheese or Brie because, usually, trout has a little smokiness to it,” Matijevich said. “That ‘goat-y’ kind of flavor would go really well with that.”
05
Mackerel
An oily fish that’s also buttery in texture, mackerel pairs great with smoked gouda or smoked mozzarella, according to Matijevich. Gruyere, Fontina and crème fraîche are also great pairings.
06
Herring
“Herring comes in a lot of different flavors,” Matijevich said. “I normally don't tell people to get those cheeses with a bunch of herbs and other flavorings in them. But for something like herring, it actually would probably be a really good idea to grab a Havarti that’s got a bunch of dill in it.”
Joy Saha is a staff writer at Salon. She writes about food news and trends and their intersection with culture. She holds a BA in journalism from the University of Maryland, College Park.
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