Dare to take cheese beyond cheesecake

Cheese is, unquestionably, my favorite food.

Often, though, it is too often assumed to be a savory food. Yes, there's cheesecake or cream cheese icing, but beyond these classics, cheese is typically relegated to savory compositions.

But who's to say that cheese's appeal and versatility should be contained? Why don't we see more cheese in desserts? Or even drinks?

Its salinity, mouthfeel and familiarity are secret weapons in desserts — and we're only just beginning to explore how. 

We should, of course, note that cheese platters in lieu of dessert are certainly ubiquitous — paired with sweet additions like goiabada, mostarda, jams, marmalades and more — but do they truly count as dessert?

There's s a storied history of sharp cheddar in desserts (like apple pie) or the aforementioned desserts made with cheeses like ricotta, goat or mascarpone. Obviously, a cheese like mozzarella or feta isn't often seen on a dessert menu.

But why not?

Chefs' exploring cheese-centric desserts

The last time I visited Washington, D.C., I ate at Lutece and tried Chef Isabel Coss's stupendous honey semifreddo with comte and honeycomb. It was astounding: complex, but with a salty, sharp note from the cheese that is so intrinsically cheese-y and couldn't be replicated with any other ingredient. When I spoke with Coss in 2023, she told me “The honeycomb semifreddo is a revisitation of a traditional French cheese plate with honey and cheese. We all know that combination, but now you can see it through my eyes, with a Mexican influence that adds a fun, delicious and new twist.

I also once had a burrata-centric dessert at a fantastic Korean restaurant in Manhattan called Atoboy that firmly wedged itself in my "favorite desserts" headspace for years to come. As I previously wrote, "It was, and remains, one of the single best desserts I’ve ever tasted. The cold granita, the crunch of the walnut, the smooth cheese, the tart yogurt, the differing temperatures, the way the granita melted on your tongue; it was truly something else."

I recently reached out to Chef Junghyun Park to ask about the dish. “The idea,” he explained, “was to use the subtle spice of Sujeonggwa—a traditional Korean dessert drink made with cinnamon and ginger—as a base, and balance it with the flavor and texture of cheese. Burrata brings a creamy, neutral profile that softens the bold flavors.”

Park added, “We also found it interesting to incorporate cheese into a Korean dessert, as it’s something we’re beginning to see more often in Korea. It felt like a playful yet thoughtful way to bridge traditional and contemporary elements.”

At Leu Leu, the new California restaurant from “Top Chef” alum Claudette Zepeda, the dessert menu reads like a dream. One standout sundae, cheekily titled No Mamey's, features Roasty + Toasty Ice Cream from Little Fox—made with toasted brioche cream, parmesan crisps, and a mascarpone swirl. Zepeda tops it with mamey curd, brown butter almond cake, and a pinole crumble. It’s a sundae built for swooning.

Making cheese-centric desserts at home

Of course, you don’t need a restaurant reservation to start experimenting with cheese-forward sweets.

In her remarkable cookbook “Bodega Bakes,” cookbook author and former Maydan pastry chef Paola Velez explores this exact idea. “Cheese is very versatile,” she told me via email. “I’ve put cheddar in a chocolate mousse before, parmesan in a strawberry tart, and other renditions of what I like to call savory-sweet bakes.”

When creating her stunning passionfruit and guava mascarpone tart, Velez used the cheese to “combat and mellow out” the common pitfalls of fruit-heavy desserts: “cloying sweetness and lip-puckering sourness.” She’s also a fan of flexibility: “If you don’t have cream cheese or don’t like the flavor of cream cheese [in baking], just use mozzarella.”

One cookie recipe in “Bodega Bakes” calls for queso Dominicano or halloumi. The inspiration? A classic Dominican pairing of guava and cheese with savory crackers, or gellletas. “What is a cookie,” she quipped, “if not a sweet cracker?”

What cheeses work well?

Practically all of them. Parmigiano Reggiano offers a craggy, crystalline bite and rich saltiness. Brie, with its smooth, buttery consistency, melts seamlessly into dessert applications. A salt-forward cheese like feta lends bright sharpness that plays beautifully with soft, sweet components like wine-poached pears or candied plums. Manchego is a personal favorite that shines in dessert contexts, and the same goes for aged gouda or even fontina.

I’ll never forget stumbling upon Gruyère caramels in a grocery store—yes, really. I was gobsmacked. What an incredible combination! The list goes on.

In the most recent season of Top Chef, Chef Cesar Murillo blended white chocolate with bleu cheese. The result was polarizing, but it’s exactly that kind of creative leap that can yield unforgettable, standout desserts.

Now it’s your turn

Cheese-forward desserts aren’t reserved for restaurants. Why not make one this weekend? Try letting cheese take the starring role at your next summer gathering — you’ll be the talk of the party.

Cheese is magnificent in every form. Don’t relegate it to a cheese plate or a passing sprinkle on a salad. Let it shine.

For too long, cheese has played second fiddle in the dessert world. Maybe now, it’s time we let it headline.