Never say no to an opportunity to visit Alaska. That’s the travel motto my wife and I seem to be living by lately. After cruising to the state aboard the Crown Princess for our wedding anniversary in August 2024, we jumped at the chance to return this May — this time on Holland America’s Koningsdam.
Cruising the Inside Passage typically includes stops in Juneau, Skagway, Ketchikan, and sometimes Sitka, along with a British Columbia port if your cruise sails from the United States. We kept our eyes peeled for black and brown bears, salmon leaping from the water, bald eagles by the dozens, playful otters, whales, seals, mountain goats, and more.
Between the abundant wildlife, gleaming glaciers, craggy mountains, temperate rainforests and endless waterfalls and coastline, Alaska is a nature lover’s dream.
Visiting Alaska and its neighboring ports, it’s easy to be swept away by the dramatic landscapes. But it’s also home to more than 229 federally recognized Alaska Native tribes—nearly 40% of all federally recognized tribes—each with their own deep histories, cultures and relationships to the land.
Visit Crazy Wolf Studio in Ketchikan and browse indigenous art pieces created by local artists, featuring a wide range of items, from kitchenware to earrings, drums and postcards. While in Juneau, grab a cup of coffee or a sockeye lox bagel at Sacred Grounds Café and don’t forget to buy a delicious souvenir from Alaska Seafood Company, both owned and operated by the Tlingit & Haida tribal enterprise. Shop unique jewelry and hats at Wild Yukon Furs in Skagway, a woman-owned business offering beautiful, Indigenous-harvested wild fur items.
Of course, it’s impossible to ignore the environmental impacts of travel, especially cruising. Alaska’s melting glaciers are a stark, visible reminder of how global warming is reshaping the world — and how quickly it’s happening. That awareness has deepened my appreciation for the state’s beauty and urgency: If Alaska is on your bucket list, consider bumping it up a few spots. There’s no time like now. And perhaps when you return home, you’ll be pulled to hold our politicians and government officials accountable for their inaction on protecting our climate.
(Jodyann Morgan) Chaya and Jodyann
Why cruise to Alaska
I find cruising to be the most relaxed form of travel. Alaska is an especially magical place to cruise, thanks to the incredible views you’ll be surrounded by — sailing past glaciers, fjords, wildlife, and through national parks. The itinerary is pre-planned, entertainment is built in and varied, service is fantastic, and you can visit many places in a relatively short time — a major perk when exploring a state this vast.
You can be as busy as you like on the ship, checking out every activity, pool, spa, and restaurant — or simply relaxing and enjoying the buffet. Many cruise lines offer educational seminars to prepare you for each port, binocular training to help you spot wildlife, and excursions ranging from fishing and hiking to food tours and animal encounters. Cruising also creates a natural social setting for meeting fellow travelers, which can be especially lovely for those exploring solo.
Alaska cruises also have a unique perk: marijuana is legal in every port. Whether your cruise departs from San Francisco, Seattle or Vancouver, recreational marijuana is legal in California, Washington, Canada and Alaska. Just be sure not to bring anything back aboard the ship, where marijuana isn’t permitted.
Now, after cruising to Alaska twice, I find myself itching to return the more traditional way. Cruising does come with constraints — namely, you’re limited to a set timeframe in each port, which makes it hard to venture too far or pack in too many activities. There’s so much to see and do, I want to spend every single day on land, soaking up every experience, animal sighting, and of course, the endless, breathtaking views.
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When to cruise Alaska
There’s nothing quite like watching black bears fishing for salmon in a creek so full of them it seems to ripple. That’s what we experienced cruising at the tail end of the season — late August into early September — and it turned out to be our favorite time to visit. The weather was a bit colder, and we got some rain, but we didn’t mind. In Skagway, we spotted salmon running through the rivers just by walking around town. It felt intimate and wild in a way that surprised us.
The truth is, there’s no “bad” time to cruise to Alaska during the season — it all depends on your preferences around weather, wildlife, crowds, and cost.
Early-season cruises tend to have smaller crowds and sometimes lower prices, but you’ll likely see more rain and fewer fishing opportunities. Salmon fishing, for example, is catch-and-release only in the early months.
Peak season — mid-June through mid-July — offers the best odds for good weather, long daylight hours, and a full roster of excursions. But that also means more tourists, fuller ships, and higher prices.
Late-season cruising (like our August–September trip) can be a sweet spot for travelers who don’t mind slightly cooler temps and a bit of rain in exchange for fewer crowds and vivid wildlife sightings. And for us, those quiet moments — watching bears stalk the shallows or eagles swoop low over the water — made it all more than worth it.
Be sure to start planning early, as Alaska cruises are incredibly popular and often fully booked, regardless of when in the season you choose to cruise.
Princess versus Holland America
We sailed Holland America’s Koningsdam in May, and it set a high bar. The food alone was a standout: Holland America’s Global Fresh Fish program rivals all competitors, sourcing fish from local ports and serving it on board within 48 hours. I was blown away by the quality and variety — from the pan-Asian offerings at Tamarind to perfectly cooked steaks and caviar service at Pinnacle Grill. Even the buffet had its moments, especially the made-to-order stir-fry station, which became a personal favorite.
Since I don’t drink much, I was thrilled by Holland’s Quench package, which covers specialty coffees, mocktails, sodas, and bottled water. The coffee at the Grand Dutch Cafe (and only at the Grand Dutch Cafe) was superb. The mocktails, unfortunately, were a disappointment — most leaned too sweet and felt more like juice than a proper adult beverage.
Our spa balcony cabin was comfortable and, dare I say, spacious by cruise standards. It came with a small couch in addition to the bed and a thoughtful closet setup — drawers plus two separate closet doors made it easy to unpack and stay organized. The only downside? The balcony door swung open rather than sliding, which meant we couldn’t leave it cracked to enjoy the breeze like we could on other ships.
When it came to entertainment, Holland America leaned heavily into its music-forward branding. That meant plenty of musical acts, but not a lot of variety beyond that. We had hoped for a lively club atmosphere or at least some karaoke — but outside of some dance lessons, no one really seemed to dance. Compared to the energy of the Princess cruise, this left us a little underwhelmed, though the extra quiet did give me more time to relax in the hot tub.
The spa itself was lovely, though my massage was interrupted by a malfunctioning table — and the therapist didn’t seem to know the weight limit, which left me uneasy. That said, the thermal suite was expansive and well-equipped, making it a serene retreat on sea days.
We’re bingo people, so we were disappointed to find the game rarely scheduled on the Koningsdam. Because we cruised from Canada, casino and bingo hours were limited, and we ended up cashing in unused chips at guest services. It was one of those small logistical hiccups that won’t ruin a trip but was definitely missed.
The only other downside was the relentless upselling throughout the cruise — from drink packages to spa treatments, it felt like someone was always trying to sell us something. Still, those annoyances were minor in the context of an otherwise incredible experience. If you’re a foodie or looking for a calmer, more grown-up cruise, Holland America is a fantastic option.
A few months earlier, we’d cruised the Crown Princess for our anniversary trip. It was a bit smaller and definitely drew a different, more diverse and younger crowd than the Koningsdam, but it had its own charm — and an energy we really enjoyed. The food wasn’t as elevated, but there were still bright spots. The buffet’s carving station served up delicious porchetta and whole turkeys, and Sabatini’s, the Italian specialty restaurant, offered gorgeous views and standout fresh pasta. On this ship, I leaned more on local Alaskan cuisine in port and didn’t mind that the on-board options weren’t outstanding.
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Mocktails were surprisingly strong on the Crown Princess — balanced, flavorful, and far less sugary than the ones on Holland. It felt like someone actually thought through the drink menu for non-drinkers, which I appreciated.
Our balcony cabin was the typical size, with a sliding glass door that let in the breeze — a little luxury I didn’t realize I’d miss until I didn’t have it on Holland. Storage was mixed: there was a large closet in the entryway for hanging clothes and storing our bags, but no drawers meant we had to shuffle around the small stuff to keep everything organized.
Where the Crown Princess really shined was entertainment. From arts and crafts to game shows, trivia, comedy, and musical performances, there was always something to do — and shows and games were often offered twice a day at different times, which made it easy to plan around dinner or downtime. The nightclub toward the top of the ship had a great DJ and stayed lively late into the night, well past the usual bedtime crowd. After the more reserved vibe on Koningsdam, this energy felt fun and refreshing.
The spa experience on Crown Princess was pleasant, though the thermal suite was smaller and more limited than Holland’s. Still, it hit the spot after a day of excursions.
Casino hours were more consistent on this cruise, likely because we departed from San Francisco rather than Canada. Bingo was offered regularly, and the roulette tables were well-staffed, with drinks delivered quickly by attentive waiters. The whole environment felt upbeat and easygoing.
In the end, you really can’t go wrong with either cruise line when sailing to Alaska — after all, just looking out the window is enough to take your breath away.
What gear to pack
It rained frequently during both of our visits to Alaska, sometimes for the entire day, but at other times for just a few hours. Preparing for the rain and embracing it made our trips so much better. We knew we wanted to spend as much time as possible on excursions, wandering around the port, enjoying all the delicious seafood, and even hiking, regardless of the weather. We packed raincoats, Smartwool base layers (which come in sizes up to 4X), and warm clothing, so no matter what nature threw at us, we were prepared. The hot tubs aboard our cruise ships got lots of use from me after our adventures, to relax my muscles and warm up.
Binoculars help level up your wildlife sightings, particularly in Alaska, so after forgetting them the first time around, we knew we weren’t making that mistake again. NOCS Provisions offers binoculars at various price points and sizes to cater to different needs. They’re fogproof and waterproof, so you won’t need to worry about the weather ruining your views, and are available in a slew of different colors. They served us well on our second trip, and my wife has been using hers since then, going on hikes and bird-watching, so I’d say it’s well worth the investment.
If you’re planning on hiking or taking long walks around ports, a high-quality belt is required (unless you mostly wear dresses, like me). Arcade belts are designed for travel, adventure, and just daily use. The belt’s stretch webbing is made from REPREVE recycled fabric, with lengths up to 52 inches, and is machine washable and metal-free, so you won’t need to remove it when going through security. My wife wore Arcade belts around Alaska and regularly since, and has been one happy camper.
There are few places I travel to without a good old fanny pack, and I may have a bit of a collection. Alaska calls for something durable, waterproof, and spacious, and the Wayb Belt Bag checks all of those boxes. It has numerous pockets to keep things organized and fits waists up to 55 inches.
Ports and excursions
Juneau
Juneau Tours and Whale Watch – It was pouring rain when the Crown Princess docked in Juneau, so we had to find something to do other than just walk around. Juneau is arguably the whale watching capital of Alaska, with humpback whales traveling from Hawaii to the area every summer, along with resident and migratory orcas, so whale watching was high on our list. Juneau Tours and Whale Watch’s boat was enclosed and heated, shielding us from the rain as we watched through giant windows. Soon, the rain cleared, and we headed outside to watch countless whales and enjoy the incredible views. Definitely a memorable and relaxing experience.
(Jodyann Morgan) Alaskan crab legs
Tracy’s Crab Shack – If you’ve been bombarded by TikTok videos of giant Alaskan crab legs, you should know they’re even better than they look. Perhaps the most popular place to chow down is Tracy’s Crab Shack in Juneau. Beautiful crab legs are cooked right out front of their portside location, where you’ll inevitably be greeted by a long line of people eager to feast. Don’t worry, the line moved pretty quickly, and anticipation is half the fun! Splurge for the Alaskan Red or Golden King crab legs, or choose a more budget-friendly and still local Dungeness or snow crab. There are many sides, such as crab cakes, soup, and more, but I’d rather enjoy the crab with the included accompaniments of coleslaw, garlic rolls and butter.
Filipino BBQ – Juneau has a historic Filipino community dating back to the late 1700s. If you walk almost to the end of the cruise dock, you’ll find two pop-up Filipino restaurants, including Carillo’s Caldo, posted and serving food to cruise ship passengers, crew and local residents alike. Every single bite was delicious, especially the lumpia and BBQ pork skewers.
Waterfall & Wildlife Tour – It might seem silly to get off a cruise ship and onto a little boat, but trust me, you’ll get an entirely different perspective. Alaska has countless waterfalls, and that’s what we were in search of on our first visit to Skagway. We saw more than 15 waterfalls, ranging from large to very small, on the Alaska Waterfalls & Wildlife tour, along with beautiful rainbows, seals, otters, and bald eagles. The cabin was heated, which was truly welcome on the nippy day, but it didn’t stop us from jumping out whenever possible. The owner of Alaska Waterfalls has a wealth of knowledge to share about the area where he grew up, and we discussed subsistence fishing, hunting, and more for a truly magical experience. Squish Factor – As you’d expect on a small vessel, the bathroom aboard is probably smaller than you want to (or can) squish into.
(Jodyann Morgan) Puppies at dog sledding camp
Summer Sled Dog Remote Yukon Camp & Summit Tour – I’m really scared of heights. Absolutely terrified. But the chance to climb into the mountains and cross into the Yukon was too tempting to pass up — so I booked a dogsledding excursion through Viator, fully intending to keep my head down the whole way.
For the first 15 minutes, that’s exactly what I did — gripping the seat, staring at my lap, and trying not to notice how close we seemed to the edge of the cliffs. But then, something shifted. I looked up… and was completely captivated. The landscape was stunning: jagged peaks, wide valleys, bursts of green and gold tumbling across the terrain. I couldn’t stop looking and thankfully, it no longer looked like we were inches away from falling off a cliff.
As you ascend, you pass through multiple climates and ecosystems, cross the U.S.–Canada border, and head into the subarctic. The driver doubles as a guide — narrating live, pointing out wildlife, answering questions, snapping photos, and cracking jokes along the way. I don’t think I’ve ever been so thoroughly entertained just driving somewhere. And that was only the beginning of what turned out to be an unforgettable excursion. Squish Factor – The outhouse at the dogsledding camp was surprisingly roomy and very clean!
Skagway Brew House – Definitely wander around Skagway if you have some time before or after your excursions. There’s a $5 bus that runs from the port, making stops along the main street. If you’re hungry, Skagway Brew House offers an excellent lunch. Their halibut fish and chips, spruce tip wings, and beer cheese soup are sure to warm you up and satisfy.
Ketchikan
Black Bear Express – We celebrated our wedding anniversary during our first visit to Ketchikan, and we were determined to see black bears. The Black Bear Express turned out to be the perfect excursion for just that. After being picked up right at the port, we were driven to the Alaska Rainforest Sanctuary, where the bear sightings began in earnest.
It’s just a short walk from the bus to a raised wooden boardwalk that winds above grassy wetlands and runs alongside Herring Creek — which, when we visited, was absolutely teeming with jumping, spawning salmon. From there, it’s only a matter of time before the bears appear.
We saw mama bears splashing around with their cubs, black bears fishing for salmon in the creek, one little cub napping in the sun, and so many birds I lost count. The whole place was alive with movement and sound. My only regret? Not booking a second tour back-to-back so I could keep watching the breathtaking wildlife and views a little longer.
Wildlife Watching Tour – Steps away from where the Koningsdam docked, we hopped onto another much smaller vessel in the pouring rain, in search of whales and other wildlife. The 2.5-hour tour took us out along the Tongass National Forest, with heated indoor seating we enjoyed while en route, before hopping outside to get a closer look. Despite the rain (which did let up for a bit), we saw majestic whales and so many bald eagles I couldn’t even begin to count. The tour was booked through Shore Excursion Group, which offers return to ship and money-back guarantees, in case the cruise shore excursions fill up or you’re looking for something a little different. Squish Factor: I didn’t attempt the bathroom on board, but it was definitely small, as expected.
Alaska Fish House – Alaska Fish House is home to my favorite fish and chips thus far, and just a short walk from the port. Crispy, tender silver salmon, local halibut, and Pacific cod are fried fresh all day long. Paired with some mesquite fries and a locally brewed cold beer (well, not for me, but if it’s your thing!), It’s a great place to dry off, fill your belly, and relax before wandering around Ketchikan. Hang your wet coat over the fireplace to dry it out while you enjoy your meal.
Prince Rupert
Saltwater Bakery – It was raining the day the Royal Princess docked in Prince Rupert, Canada — a small port town with a population of just over 12,000. While my wife set off on a hike, I wandered solo through the quiet streets, stopped by the local dispensary, and stumbled upon Saltwater Bakery. Obviously, I had to go in.
The bakery is owned and operated by the Gitxaała Nation, one of the Indigenous Tsimshian communities whose ancestral lands stretch across this coastal region. I ordered a croissant — buttery, beautifully layered, and still warm — and instantly regretted not grabbing a second one. Saltwater offers a gorgeous spread of fresh-baked pastries, bread, savory bites, and house-made ice cream.
LeBLANC boutique – I was happily surprised when I walked past the LeBLANC boutique in Prince Rupert while just killing time, and I saw a big sign in front indicating they carried plus sizes. It wasn’t open yet, but you best believe that I found my way back there pretty quickly. As it turns out, not only did they have numerous plus-size options, including some fun dresses from Canadian designers, but there was also a lot of cat-related merchandise scattered throughout the store. My wife bought a shirt that said “Cat Hair is my Glitter.” I’m not usually big on shopping while traveling, but I’m glad I stopped by this store, and you will be, too.
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