Marisa Meltzer
Venus abused
In the early 1800s, Westerners leered at Saartjie Bartmaan's curvy body and exotic skin. But do we gawk any less today?
The life story of Saartjie Baartman, the African slave who was displayed in Europe in the early 19th century, contains so many layers of oppression to sort through that author Rachel Holmes begins by trying to untangle her name. In “African Queen: the Real Life of the Hottentot Venus,” Holmes concedes that Saartjie (pronounced “Saar-key,” meaning “little Sara”) might not even be the name she was born with, calling the -tjie diminutive suffix a “racist speech act.” Colonialist roots and all, it “was her name in life as she lived it.”
Baartman was born into the Eastern Cape Khoisan, the indigenous herding tribe that once populated part of South Africa. As a teenager, she was orphaned after her father and fianci were both murdered in a colonial war, and sold to a trader, Pieter Willem Cesars. He took her to Cape Town, where she worked for his brother as a nursemaid. Around 1810, once the family started experiencing economic difficulties, they looked to Baartman as their next source of income, figuring that in Europe, where curiosity about the Dark Continent ran rampant, “a pretty maidservant with notable buttocks and a spotty giraffe skin were a winning combination on which to stake their future.”
They settled in late Georgian London, where freak shows touting “the ne plus ultra of hideousness” or “the greatest deformity in the world” lined Piccadilly. As Holmes points out, England was transitioning from a sentimental primitivism — the noble savage — to the popular Victorian notion of ethnology. With the slave trade being abolished just a few years before and the black population of London at about 20,000, their challenge was to make the investment — Baartman — conform to stereotypes and yet also seem like a novelty. They marketed her as a kind of “scantily clad totem goddess,” the Hottentot Venus, sex incarnate. Hottentots, what European traders called the native Khoisan for the clicking sound of their language, “signified all that was strange, disturbing, alien, and possibly, sexually deviant.”
She was objectified in the most literal sense, put on display in front of gaping crowds six days a week, doing suggestive “native” dancing and playing African instruments. Her costume was a flesh-colored silk sheath deliberately cut like a second skin, with copious jewelry at the seams to conceal the fact that she wasn’t technically naked. They also fashioned her a kind of female codpiece, “the effect of its soft folds, fur fringes, and pendulous extensions was to imply that its purpose was to modestly conceal the supposedly elongated labia of a Hottentot woman” — a subject of great interest and speculation among the gawking masses. She became an instant sensation, a subject of countless life drawings (many of which are included in the book), editorials and political cartoons. The London Morning Post wrote, of her body, that “her contour and formation certainly surpass any thing [sic] of the kind ever seen in Europe, or perhaps ever produced on Earth.”
Holmes is so clearly besotted with her subject that her writing can tend toward the florid when describing her (“to behold the figure of Venus, or to hear her name was to be prompted to think about lust, or love”). Baartman physically exists in the story — the narrative is entirely devoted to her — and yet, since she was unable to read or write, very little exists in her own voice. As her story progresses, that absence becomes more and more notable. But perhaps that’s Holmes’ point: As a slave and as a woman, Baartman never did have any kind of agency in her own life. “Economically, sexually, and racially,” Holmes writes, “she was unfree.”
Her supposed liberation at the hands of abolitionists, who initiated a lawsuit to win her freedom, feels like further commodification from a party interested not in her ultimate well-being, but in drumming up publicity for their own cause. It did earn her a contract, read to her twice in Afrikaans, that covered standard demands like medical treatment, warmer clothes, profit sharing and the promise that she would eventually be sent home. “She was not seen as a sympathetic victim,” writes Holmes, who tries unsuccessfully at this point to sell Baartman as a cunning businesswoman who had “outmaneuvered her managers and made herself attractive to eligible bachelors as a woman of means.”
And while there are a few years in England where she managed to escape the probing public — she was rumored to have gotten married or had a baby, though there is no record of either — the arguably most grim period of her life came after this so-called freedom. In 1814, she and Cesars moved to Paris at the end of the Napoleonic era, where she was examined for three days by scientists at the Museum of Natural History, developed an addiction to alcohol, and, at some point, became a prostitute. She died in Paris of either a respiratory disease or syphilis — the records aren’t clear — at the age of 26. Her death didn’t bring her any dignity, either; her body was cast and dissected and became the property of the Museum of Natural History. Her brain and genitals were kept in bell jars just outside one creepy scientist’s private chambers.
Holmes devotes the last chapter to Nelson Mandela’s campaign to have Baartman’s remains returned to South Africa. It’s a reverent coda to the book, but Holmes’ own take on Baartman’s legacy might have made a more compelling end to her story. Holmes never deviates from narrating the story, which she does capably, but her reluctance to write about why she’s so moved by Baartman’s life is ultimately our loss. It never moves beyond a hagiography, and therefore doesn’t really add anything new or particularly timely. We’re left to speculate about Holmes’ motives — her bio says she divides her time between London and Cape Town, and the book is steeped in feminist theory, take your pick — but we’re left with no explanation of why she felt so drawn to this project.
She does hint at a post-Baartman world, briefly quoting Josephine Baker — “When it comes to blacks, the imagination of white folks is something else” — and she mentions the popularity of the bustle among fashionable Victorians. Holmes imagines Baartman would have laughed at buttock augmentation, the fastest-growing cosmetic surgery in the U.S. and U.K. But what does she have to say about Queen’s “Fat Bottom Girls” or Destiny’s Child’s “Bootylicious”? Now we can scoff at the clueless Valley Girls in the intro to Sir Mix-A-Lot’s asstastic “Baby Got Back” (“I mean, her butt, is just so big. I can’t believe it’s just so round, it’s like, out there, I mean — gross. Look! She’s just so … black!”), but does it mean that we’ve come a long way? In the simultaneous lasciviousness and curiosity we’ve lavished on Jennifer Lopez’s posterior, have we never stopped searching for that scantily clad totem goddess after all? We can pat ourselves on the back and feel disgusted by the story, and yet what made people leer at Baartman has the same effect on us today.
The knife life
In "Beauty Junkies," Alex Kuczynski's memoir-cum-expos
Just in case reading Alex Kuczynski’s “Beauty Junkies: Inside Our $15 Billion Obsession With Cosmetic Surgery” wasn’t enough to convince me that the plastic surgery craze has saturated society, my mother called me a few days after I started the book to cheerily announce she had made an appointment to get veneers put on her teeth.
My mom, a wiccan who wears clogs and writes poetry in her spare time, is not exactly the Joan Rivers type. But 50-something years of hating her teeth has driven her to the ranks of Faye Dunaway, Ben Affleck, Tama Janowitz and countless others whose smiles are veneer-perfect. She’s still a far cry from Michael Jackson or Jocelyn Wildenstein, the New York socialite who had plastic surgery to make her face appear more feline, but that’s exactly Kuczynski’s point; growing numbers of Americans are opting for a cosmetic fix. As she notes, in 2004, almost 12 million surgical and nonsurgical beauty procedures were performed in the United States. That’s up 44 percent from the previous year and includes 166,187 nose jobs, 290,343 eyelifts, 478,251 liposuctions and 334,052 breast augmentations — a surgery that has become so commonplace it may have contributed to an increase in the average bra size from 34B to 36C over the past 15 years. And then there’s Botox, injections of botulinum toxin A that can paralyze muscles in the face and erase wrinkles — which are up 2,446 percent since 1997.
Continue Reading CloseEdwards vs. Clinton
The senator's wife said she's happier than Hillary. Is this dust-up about presidential politics, or the politics of motherhood?
And here we hoped the intraparty digs might wait till the presidential primary season. Last week, Elizabeth Edwards, wife of former Sen. John Edwards of North Carolina, apologized to her husband’s colleague (and likely rival for the 2008 Democratic nomination) Sen. Hillary Clinton. Why? Well, Edwards had allegedly been snide about Clinton in the press, telling Ladies’ Home Journal, “She and I are from the same generation. We both went to law school and married other lawyers, but after that we made other choices. I think my choices have made me happier. I think I’m more joyful than she is.”
Continue Reading CloseTurning back the clock on single-sex education
The Department of Education retools Title IX, allowing more same-sex ed.
Welcome to the official Title IX backlash! Dear, sweet Title IX was passed in the halcyon(ish) days of 1972, banning sex discrimination in schools and activities that receive federal funds. It ensured equality in education for girls and is responsible for many of today’s female mathletes and soccer champs. Hooray!
But its days may be dwindling. Lately the so-called boy crisis in public schools has become every lazy media outlet’s topic du jour, fueling the perception that girls get better college preparation than boys. That theory has been officially debunked with genuine research — race and class turned out to be two of the real culprits for educational disparities, not gender — but the Bush administration has yielded to the overblown boy crisis hysteria anyway.
Continue Reading CloseEquality in New Jersey
The state's Supreme Court finds that gay couples must be allowed the same rights and responsibilities as straight couples.
This afternoon New Jersey’s Supreme Court ruled that same-sex couples are entitled to the same rights and protections as heterosexual couples. While the move is a step forward, it’s still too soon to declare victory for same-sex marriage in the state, since the court leaves the question of whether to call gay unions by the anointed M-word “to the democratic process.” The upshot is that New Jersey is currently in a similar situation as Vermont, where civil unions are authorized; Massachusetts is still the only state that has legalized same-sex marriages as such.
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Breaking food news from across the pond.
Women are so rarely given a chance to pen humor pieces for general-interest publications that I feel a little bad about what I’m about to say: I failed to find anything remotely funny in Mimi Spencer’s “A Girl’s Guide to Eating and Drinking” or Polly Vernon’s “A Bird’s Guide to Boozing” in the most recent edition of the British Observer Food Monthly.
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