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Don’t buy the Cracker Barrel fallacy

Online petitions and viral outrage give the illusion of influence — but real power lies elsewhere

Senior Food Editor

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Cracker Barrel exterior (Joe Raedle/Getty Images)
Cracker Barrel exterior (Joe Raedle/Getty Images)

The Cracker Barrel logo fiasco had all the makings of a small-town play staged in a national arena: the beloved image swapped for something sleeker, the tumble in the stock price, a rush of nostalgia-tinged outrage and, inevitably, a retreat. Somewhere in the middle came a White House-distributed illustration of President Donald Trump rocking contentedly on the brand’s porch — proof that even a new typeface can become a proxy battle for American culture.

What might once have been a footnote in a quarterly earnings report has become a recognizable genre: the corporate reversal, performed in public, equal parts contrition and spectacle.

Cracker Barrel even tried to play both roles at once. On Tuesday, it posted a note insisting the new logo would stay, but apologizing for the rollout — “we could have done a better job sharing who we are and who we’ll always be.” By Wednesday, the company had scrapped that line entirely, announcing the “Old Timer” logo would return, along with a reminder that at Cracker Barrel, it’s always been about “delicious food, warm welcomes, and the kind of country hospitality that feels like family.”

The company isn’t alone.

Last year, Bud Light found itself fumbling through outrage and apology after a brief partnership with transgender influencer Dylan Mulvaney. Commemorative cans for her “365 Days of Girlhood” series set off a firestorm: conservative boycotts, Kid Rock blasting cases of beer with a rifle, pundits dubbing it the “groomer of beers.”

In one particularly eventful week, Anheuser-Busch received a letter from Senator Ted Cruz announcing a Senate investigation and another from the Human Rights Campaign, suspending the company’s LGBTQ equality score. When the CEO finally spoke, his gauzy call for unity — “We never intended to be part of a discussion that divides people” — satisfied no one.

And yet, while the stunts and apologies grab headlines, they are only the most visible beats in a larger rhythm: the ways consumers try, and often fail, to bend corporations to their will.

Once, our collective life was routed through gatekeepers. If you wanted to rally a cause, you needed a church basement, a PTA roster, a union hall. Clay Shirky, author of “Here Comes Everybody: The Power of Organizing without Organizations,” captured it neatly in 2008: for most of modern life, we didn’t have all the groups we wanted, only the ones we could afford. Now the scaffolding has collapsed. With the old friction gone, people can self-assemble around anything at all — zoning laws, a lost cat, the memory of a discontinued soda.

Even the faintest irritation, say a restaurant chain tinkering with its logo, can summon thousands to the same digital square.

It’s a different story when you look back at the New Coke fiasco of 1985. Fans hoarded cases of the original formula, stockpiling them like precious artifacts. Letters poured into Coca-Cola headquarters by the thousands, and the phone lines swamped; a psychiatrist brought in to listen reported hearing people mourn as if a relative had died. Seattle retiree Gay Mullins even founded the “Old Cola Drinkers of America,” lobbying relentlessly for the return of the original flavor. Some protests took on almost ritualistic qualities: cans of New Coke were dumped into sewers, a vivid testament to how deeply, and theatrically, people could commit to a product they loved.

Today, it’s easier. People click their way to action on sites like Change.org, rallying for the return of KFC potato wedges or demanding that Starbucks drop its non-dairy milk surcharge. They air complaints on social media, like the thousands who urged Cracker Barrel to reverse their decision. There’s a thrill in it, the sense that a few keystrokes might bend a corporate titan to your will. And sometimes, in tiny ways, it does. But mostly, it’s an illusion.

The promise is that we can shape behavior; the fallacy is that the power rarely reaches beyond cosmetic concessions.

There is a certain fascination in watching it unfold. A brand makes a change, outrage blooms online, memes riff on the outrage, calls for boycotts ripple through feeds and in rare cases, a small consequence registers. For a moment, it feels as if we are nudging the levers of corporate power, that our collective attention matters.

Look closer, though, and the effect is fleeting. The petitions, the pile-ons, the memes — all the digital noise — are absorbed into corporate PR cycles, repurposed as apology, publicity or marketing insight. Ever the opportunist, Donald Trump put it plainly in his TruthSocial post about Cracker Barrel: the company should return to its old logo and capitalize on “a Billion Dollars worth of free publicity.”

We imagine ourselves influencing the story, but mostly we are participating in a prearranged rhythm, following cues we barely notice. And perhaps that is part of the appeal: the chance to feel, if only briefly, that our voices and our outrage can reach beyond the scroll.

The promise is that we can shape behavior; the fallacy is that the power rarely reaches beyond cosmetic concessions.

Even when outrage seems to leave a mark — like Bud Light’s sales slump, which, it should be noted, followed real-world boycotts from both the political left and right — the effect is modest compared with the levers that truly shape our lives. Online uproar can disrupt a campaign or nudge quarterly sales, but it rarely touches the deeper structures: labor practices, environmental policy, tax avoidance or the hollowing-out of local economies.

And yet, where else are we going to feel this sense of agency? In our hearts, most of us know that a petition or viral tweet rarely impacts the decisions made at billion-dollar corporations. But in a time of destabilizing politics, war, famine and a general sense that nothing is really in control, these low-effort expressions offer a little flex of influence. Companies that will placate us over a logo redesign or menu item remain unmoved on the issues that matter most — yet we still click, sign and share, because it feels like something, however small, we can do.

That isn’t cause for despair.

It’s a reminder to notice where influence is tangible: supporting a local business, showing up at a community meeting, mentoring someone, volunteering. These quieter, slower acts accumulate into change you can actually see and feel. The digital roar may be intoxicating, but agency lives in the small, steady gestures — the ones that don’t make headlines, but do make a difference.

By Ashlie D. Stevens

Ashlie D. Stevens is Salon's senior food editor. She is also an award-winning radio producer, editor and features writer — with a special emphasis on food, culture and subculture.

Her writing has appeared in and on The Atlantic, National Geographic’s “The Plate,” Eater, VICE, Slate, Salon, The Bitter Southerner and Chicago Magazine, while her audio work has appeared on NPR’s All Things Considered and Here & Now, as well as APM’s Marketplace. She is based in Chicago.


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