In peak summer, my oven is largely decorative. Working in food, my office is quite literally the kitchen: I write at a repurposed steel prep table, with my laptop on top and Dutch ovens stored below, that sits directly beside the stove. Turning on the oven quite literally changes the climate of my entire workplace — but roasting summer fruit is one of the few things that makes the sacrifice worthwhile.
The heat makes berries slump and burst, pooling the pan with juices that turn thick, glossy and intensely flavored as they cook, a concentration that maceration alone simply can’t achieve. Blueberries are especially good this way, tumbled with honey, orange zest and a few sprigs of thyme until they become jammy and fragrant.
(And in a summer when raw produce has been making headlines, a little heat feels especially welcome.)
Most often, I spoon them over yogurt, fold them into oatmeal or blend them into smoothies. This summer, though, I’ve been turning them into a chilled blueberry soup with yogurt and buttermilk. It is playful and slightly unorthodox, especially if, in your childhood household, “soup” meant both vegetables and heat, but it is refreshing in terms of both effort and final product. The technique here is simple: Roast the berries until their juices thicken, chill them completely, then blend with yogurt and buttermilk until smooth.
Serve it for breakfast, brunch or as a light first course; that flexibility is part of its charm.
The soup works because every ingredient seems delighted by the company. Thyme and honey belong to a mutual admiration society, as do berries and buttermilk; the woodiness of the herb plays beautifully against tangy yogurt, while orange zest somehow charms the entire table. It is one of those cosmic dinner parties where everyone feels lucky with the seating arrangement.
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The only thing missing is a little crunch.
I’ve topped bowls with butter-soaked, cardamom-dusted sourdough croutons, a simple scattering of pistachios, granola and even dried coconut flakes, and each has worked beautifully.
Ingredients
- 2 pints fresh blueberries, rinsed and thoroughly dried
- 3 tablespoons honey, divided, plus more for serving
- 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest, plus more for serving
- 4 sprigs fresh thyme
- ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
- ¾ cup cold buttermilk, plus more as needed
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, plus more to taste
For serving, choose one or more:
- Chopped roasted pistachios
- Granola
- Unsweetened dried coconut flakes
- Cardamom sourdough croutons, recipe below
- Additional yogurt
Directions
- Heat the oven to 400°F and line a rimmed sheet pan with parchment paper.
- Add the blueberries to the prepared pan. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the honey, then add the orange zest, thyme and salt. Toss gently to coat and spread the berries into an even layer.
- Roast for 18 to 22 minutes, until the berries have slumped and burst and their juices are bubbling and beginning to thicken. Remove and discard the thyme sprigs, then let the berries cool completely. Reserve about ½ cup of the roasted berries and their juices for serving.
- Transfer the remaining berries and juices to a blender. Add the yogurt, buttermilk, lemon juice and remaining tablespoon of honey. Blend until completely smooth. Add more buttermilk, a tablespoon or two at a time, until the soup reaches your preferred consistency.
- Taste and adjust with additional lemon juice, honey or salt. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 30 minutes.
- Divide the soup among bowls. Spoon the reserved roasted berries over the top, then finish with a swirl of yogurt, a thread of honey and your chosen crunchy topping.
- The soup can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to three days. Stir well before serving and keep any crunchy toppings separate.
Cook’s Notes
Optional cardamom sourdough croutons
Toss 2 cups of small sourdough cubes with 2 tablespoons melted butter, 1 tablespoon sugar, ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom and a pinch of kosher salt. Spread them on a sheet pan and bake at 400°F for 8 to 12 minutes, tossing once, until crisp and deeply golden.
Let cool before adding them to the soup.
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