RECIPE

A 5-ingredient formula for the perfectly creamy spring pea soup

You can make a flavor-packed and filling seasonal soup using whatever you have on-hand in your kitchen

By Ashlie D. Stevens

Food Editor

Published April 9, 2022 4:45PM (EDT)

Leek Tarragon Pea Soup (Getty Images/Lori Andrews)
Leek Tarragon Pea Soup (Getty Images/Lori Andrews)

I'm all about recipes that allow you to riff based on what you have on hand in your kitchen. Pantry pasta? Yes, please. A free association salad? Sign me up. My current seasonal favorite is a really simple pea soup that takes different forms based on whatever ingredients are hanging out in my crisper drawer

The general formula is simple: sauté some alliums, add some stock and peas to the pot, swirl in something a little creamy and gently flavor with some herbs or zest. Let the whole thing simmer until you're ready to serve, preferably along with some fresh, crusty bread or toasty croutons

Well, what are you waiting for? Grab a spoon — and let's dive into why this combination of flavors works well.

Alliums 

Alliums include ingredients like onions, garlic, scallions, shallots, leeks and chives. They all have that kind of slightly biting, verdant and funky flavor — typically with a little sweetness and umami if caramelized just enough. They're the workhorses of the kitchen, which is why so many recipes use them as a base ingredient. 

Related: Gives peas a chance? It's time for their turn in the "it vegetable" spotlight

Stock 

While I wouldn't use a super "meaty" stock, such as beef or mushroom, the only requirement for the one used in this soup is that it tastes good. Splurge (if you can) for the "nice" boxed stock or simply make your own. Either chicken or vegetable stock would be delicious. 

Peas

Behold, the star of this recipe! Both fresh or frozen shelled peas work beautifully here.

Dairy (or non-dairy) cream 

Basically, you want to add just a hint of creaminess to this recipe. You can, of course, use actual cream or half-and-half, but there are some delicious alternatives, too. A dollop of sour cream or yogurt adds a really pleasant tang to the soup, while coconut milk and oat milk also add additional depth of flavor.

Herbs or zest 

Peas pair really well with a variety of herbs, including tarragon, dill, sage, mint, chives (pulling double duty as allium and herb!) and parsley. A modest handful makes a big difference to a pot of soup. Similarly, a tablespoon or two of zest — either lemon or lime — can brighten the flavor.

Some of the best combinations I've tried include: 

  • 4 minced scallions, 4 cups vegetable stock, 4 cups peas, 1/2 cup full-fat coconut milk and 1 tablespoon lime zest 
  • 2 minced shallots, 4 cups chicken stock, 4 cups peas, 1/2 cup cream and 1 tablespoon minced tarragon 
  • 1/2 cup chopped leeks, 4 cups chicken stock, 4 cups peas, 1/2 cup sour cream and 2 tablespoons chives 
  • 1 cup chopped white onion, 4 cups vegetable stock, 4 cups peas, 1/2 cup cashew yogurt, 2 tablespoons chopped mint 
  • 4 cloves minced garlic, 4 cups chicken stock, 4 cups peas, 1/2 cup oat milk, 1 tablespoon lemon zest

Like most soups, the longer you let the pot simmer, the more flavorful the end result will be. That said, if you have 30 minutes to let this soup cook, that's more than enough. For the sake of a classic texture (and aesthetics), I like to blend the final soup using a small food processor or immersion blender — but that's honestly optional. 

Bonus: Pea soup is one of the few soups that works well both hot and cold, making this a staple that you can carry along with you into the early summer. 


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By Ashlie D. Stevens

Ashlie D. Stevens is Salon's food editor. She is also an award-winning radio producer, editor and features writer — with a special emphasis on food, culture and subculture. Her writing has appeared in and on The Atlantic, National Geographic’s “The Plate,” Eater, VICE, Slate, Salon, The Bitter Southerner and Chicago Magazine, while her audio work has appeared on NPR’s All Things Considered and Here & Now, as well as APM’s Marketplace. She is based in Chicago.

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